Wed, 29 Jun 2005

Dalton Highway

If you ever looked at an Alaska road map, you may have noticed a very strange road that stretches from about Fairbanks to Deadhorse on the Arctic Ocean coast.

The Dalton Highway is a supply road for Prudhoe Bay, a major oil field that pumps crude directly into the Alaskan pipeline. This pipeline runs from top to bottom of the state, and along side the dalton in this particular case.

People build roads so you can DRIVE on them, right? Well, apparently no one thought so. After asking several Alaskan friends and family of mine about this road, i was told that "it was closed to the public", "oh, no, you can't drive on that road", and "thats not a real road".

As you may already know, I do not like answers like these. Thats like someone saying "Oh, no, i NEVER been in my backyard. I hear you are not allowed to go back there."

Yea, so, I got myself a nice rental car. It was a nice Ford Escape -- until i was finished with it.

After winding and twisting through the hills towards this crazy highway, we finally made it. A big sign said "DALTON HIGHWAY", along with some pretty funny signs telling you to keep your headlights on for the next 414 miles.

And then the pavement ended. Oh crap, apparently its a 400+ mile dirt road. Up some crazy hill i climb, lose gravel flying. It was barely wide enough for two people, let alone enough room for me and a large semi.

I pulled off the side of the road, scared shittless of what I got myself into. Yea, this road is too rough. My wife noted that we already bought the "Drove to the Arctic Cricle" bumper sticker, and we couldn't stop now.

She was right, the Arctic circle seemed pretty close on the map. I expected it to take us about two hours tops. We hit the Dalton at about 5pm.

The Dalton is a crazy road. Not only do the big rigs take up most of the road, but they drive FAST. I clocked one guy at over 100 miles per hour....while I was doing 70. Yes, 70 miles per hour on a dirt road with potholes. Eventually you just sort of glide over them.

The highway was not all dirt, there were a couple mile sections that were paved. I have no idea what possessed anyone to pave these roads, but they were pretty steep hill climbs. It just seems funny to stumble on pavement in the middle of nowhere.

I was shocked to find most bridges over streams were not cement, but WOOD. Yes, rotten wood bridges with deep pit marks. Thats ok, you just drive really fast over these and close your eyes.

After hours of driving, we approched the Yukon River. The river was pretty large and spectacular. The bridge was made out of, you guessed it, rotten wood.

After crossing this crazy, sloping bridge, we finally reached a fuel point. Oh, and in case you haven't realized yet, there are a whole two gas stations on this 400 mile road.

I needed gas, the tank was getting pretty low. I was making very bad time, and the loose gravel really killed my SUV's gas mileage. I go up to an old analog pump, put it up to the vehicle, and turn the lever. Nothing happened.

Weird...I flipped the lever over and over, still nothing. I figured it was broken. Suddently, a lady walks from the collection of gift shop shacks across the dirt driveway.

"Hold on, I have to turn it on."

"Oh, ok," i said, noting the extensive apparatus connected to the gas pump.

She flips on a large Honda generator, which has several jury-riged, partially exposed wires running directly to the old fashioned pump. On the pump hangs a sign "No Smoking, Stop vehicle before fueling". Right. Ok. I feel safe.

I top off the tank, pay her in cash, and go on my way.

Driving further down the road, I noted an odd rail-road crossing. Well, it was actually said "STOP - AIR TRAFFIC".

apparently, if someone wants to fly onto the Dalton highway, the plane radios a small control shack, the gates drop, and the plane lands on the highway. Very creative use of space.

After more endless driving, we finally reach the arctic circle. There was a cute sign to take your picture next to, along with a campground. A head was another endless dirt road -- but i decided to turn around at this point. I did not want to spend my entire weekend on a road to the arctic.

On my way back, the rental car started to make noises. Loud rubbing sounds, squeels, etc. I picked up the cell phone to call my rental company, but noticed that there was no signal....for about 200 miles. It would not have been a good thing anyway because apparently my rental contract forbids me to drive on this road.

I explained these noises later in great detail to my dad, and apparently I really dicked up the thing. But who knows if I actually was the cause .. it was a Ford.

Next time, I am going to have to get a proper vehicle and drive the entire road...

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